Anyway, it turned out there was a lot of philosophy behind Bobbi’s eyeshadow shades, and I thought you guys would be interested in reading about it, even if you decide you don’t want to follow Bobbi’s method. So here’s the 411 from pixichik77:
The Bobbi eye starts with anÂ Â â€œall-over shadeâ€, and there are certain shadows meant for that purpose. Â The all-over shade is meant to even out discoloration in the lid, allow the next color (lid shade) to look better and truer, highlight under the brow, and help your eye shadow last longer. [Karla's note: I've heard this from MAC artists, too. They call it the "prime color."]
The all-over shade is sort of Bobbiâ€™s version of a primer (she doesnâ€™t offer a shadow primer, but remember she has drier skin and much of her line caters to that). I also find that if you do use more than one color on the lid (a crease color, etc.) the all-over color makes blending easier. Even when I worked there, I had to use a primer (Urban Decay’s Primer Potion or Art Deco’s primer) and I still do, but I have ALWAYS used the all-over shade. Bone is the only shadow I have EVER hit pan on, and I have gone through about three of them now.
Bobbi recommends you use a LOT of the all-over shade, really pack it on. She recommends the Eye Shader brush for this, a sort of flat, wide brush that I LOVE. The all-over shade should be a little lighter than your actual skin tone. So for me, NC 30-40, that means Bone. Even when I am darker, I stay with Bone; the next shade up is Banana and that is just too dark for me. It shouldnâ€™t look like anything, it should just look like an evened out lid. For very minimal makeup, just add liner and mascara and go.
Ok, that was a lot of explanation, but here are the shades, in rough order of light to dark:
- White (for very fair)
- Ivory (most people lighter than NC30; has just a hint of yellow in it to help balance out the red in fair lids)
- Bone (the classic, and more yellow than all the previous)
- Toast (only for VERY dark skin tones; the peach in it keeps it from going ashy like Banana can)
Flesh was new when I left the line and I think it’s too pigmented/ deep to be an all-over shade.
You might have noticed that none of these are shimmers. Bobbi doesnâ€™t usually recommend a Shimmerwash as an all-over shade — brow highlight maybe (Champagne, Snow), but not all over.
Pretty much every other shadow except for the very dark ones are meant to be lid and/or crease shades.Â Â Bobbi doesnâ€™t doÂ Â a whole lot of crease colors in her looks (she’s been doing more of them lately) but the crease and lid shades are usually pretty close in value and not very high contrast.
The very-very dark shades are intended to be liners, wet or dry. They donâ€™t tend to be as smooth as the mid-toned shades. Some people will try to use them as a crease color and complain that they drag, tug, or don’t blend smoothly. That’s just because they are really designed to be used wet as liner, and they get inky dark when wet.Â Â These shades would include (in the mattes): Caviar, Charcoal, Navy, Ivy, Black Plum, Mahogany, Espresso, and sometimes Smoke (usually too light unless you are very fair). Some of the Shimmerwash shadows make lovely liners. I usually use them on top of a gel to get more depth though. These would include Sapphire, Eggplant, and Gunmetal.
Bobbi also uses her eyeshadows as brow shadows. I would caution never to use Espresso and Charcoal as brow color unless you are (1) very, very dark (in my five years at the counter, I used Espresso once on someoneâ€™s brow and Charcoal never) or (2) you want a gothic black brow.Â Â Shadows read darker in the brow than on the hand or lid (so many shades can pull double duty, and be used as both lid color and brow color). The color change can be attributed to the oils in the brow. I am fairly tan, black hair, and jet black brows: I use Saddle most of the time, Mahogany if I want a little more drama.
Anyway, my favorite shades for brows are: Birch, Blonde (which pulls warm on most blondes. This one is better for a strawberry blonde; cool blondes may prefer Grey or Cement), Camel (redheads), Cement, Chocolate, Flint, Grey, Hot Stone, Mahogany, Mink, Sable, Saddle, Slate, Toast (redheads again), and Wheat. Black Plum is good for girls who dye their hair that really dark red violet, almost black, but with hints of red. A lot of these shadows are very close to one another with minor differences in tone. If you want to pick one for your brow, I’d say try to narrow it down to two, then try one in one brow, one in the other.