It’s interesting attending fashion week from backstage. You see the makeup and hair first, you hear it explained in terms of the designer’s collection — but you only see the clothes later (and probably online). While Cynthia Rowley is a household name, my understanding of her work is limited to what I’ve seen in Target. It really took the final runway images to help me make sense of the hair and makeup.
Val Garland was keying the show for MAC, and she said the inspiration was Twiggy-esque. She put nothing on the models’ top lids or lashes, then gave them Tammy Faye Baker lower lashes. 10-20 coats of mascara, Val said: non-waterproof, intentionally gloopy. If the girls had thin lashes, the artists added translucent powder between coats to add volume. She made sure the girls had beautiful skin (Face & Body foundation, minimal base), and gave them a flushed cheek (as if they were fresh from dancing). On their lips she put red Lip Mix, pressed into the lip and softened around the edge — a little smudgy, as if they’d been kissing boys.
Bok-Hee for Antonio Prieto Salon designed the hair. She and her team blow-dried or flat-ironed the models’ hair completely straight, gave it a deep side part, then pulled it back in an extremely smooth up-do, secured with a giant metallic hair clip. Wella Professionals provided hairpieces in silvery grey and cool gold — woven in, they looked like highlights in the models’ hair. I asked about those contrasting highlights, and Wella rep Aura Friedman explained that they were meant to provide interest, to give the impression of a spotlight shine on the hair. The Wella team had talked to Ms. Rowley about upcoming trends in hair color, and Ms. Rowley liked that luminous, iridescent, shiny, almost metallic color that we’re going to be seeing next spring.