NYFW S/S 2011: MAC for Nicole Miller

The makeup look at Nicole Miller was minimalist but pretty. James Kaliardos (superstar, total charmer, makeup genius) said he visualized a modern Catherine Deneuve, using elements from the 60s to create a look that wasn’t dated. He gave his models a luminous champagne-silvery-gold lid with a grey crease (the line was very soft). There was no liner, and very little mascara (just a tiny bit at the roots on the outer corners, to suggest fullness).

There are lots of reasons to be jealous of models, but in this case, I coveted the pearly eye kohl they wore to highlight their waterline and the inner corner of their eyes. I’m pretty sure this pencil is part of the upcoming Cham-pale collection. The models also sported dewy skin and sheer, pale, glossy lips.

I tried to coax more new-product info out of one of the senior artists, and he said we could look forward to a new kind of totally matte mineral bronzer, a new sheer lipstick formula to replace the old Slimshines, and a Lillyland-esque (Cremeblend) cream blush. Intriguing! And yet not nearly enough information.
Nicole Miller, James Kaliardos, MAC, NYFW, ready to wear, spring/summer, 2011
These models were all in varying states of readiness, but I thought you could really see the shape of their eyeshadow and the gloss of the lipstick.

Watching Kevin Ryan of R Session Tools do hair was a revelation. I thought I knew all there was to know about up-dos. Let me rephrase: I didn’t think there was much to an up-do, but Kevin blew me away.

He started by teasing the hair, to give it some volume and texture at the roots. He used Aveda Volumizing Tonic and Oribe Dry Texturing Spray, which he said was a miraculous combination of hairspray and dry shampoo (and he said that it doesn’t produce the powdery build-up of many other dry shampoos).

Two to three inches from the bottom of the models’ hair, Kevin used small clear elastics to make two “pigtails.” The elastic itself was relatively tight around the hair, but the pigtails were incredibly loose. Kevin explained that a bobbypin through the elastics would stay (whereas hair can start to slip). He also recommended using two elastics per ponytail, as a failsafe against sudden breakage.

He curled the ends of the hair (below the elastic) just a bit, then tied half a knot with the two pigtails. He used really long bobbypins to secure the half knot, then tied a second time (finishing the knot). Once again, he anchored the bun with long bobbypins, making sure the pins went through the elastics, and didn’t show.

After all this, he was still left with two long floppy ends, which he pulled back through the bun with forceps (it was hardcore). Then he used really tiny rubber-coated bobbypins to secure anything that needed securing. As a last step, he asked the models to shake their heads. He said something would come loose anyway, it might as well come loose in his chair, while he had time to evaluate it. He finished with L’Oreal Elnett hairspray, and the final result was glorious.
Nicole Miller, hair, Kevin Ryan, updo, spring summer, 2011, ready to wear, NYFW
Nails were done by Butter London, and Nonie Creme herself mixed a custom shade, a steely grey near-creme (with the tiniest bit of shimmer) based on a fabric swatch from the collection.
Nicole Miller, NYFW, ready to wear, spring/summer, 2011, fashion week

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