I think Vena Cava’s fall 2011 show was inspired by the designers’ own aesthetic in the 90s. The makeup (directed by Christian McCulloch for MAC Cosmetics) looked like a Deborah Lippmann polish exploded in the models’ faces. In an interview with Vogue, co-designer Sophie Buhai recalled her high school days wearing “lots of glitter on my face and a half a tub of Vaseline in my hair!”
The models faces were mostly clean (foundation, concealer, Strobe Cream), with a sudden gunmetal-slate-petrol-blue glitter explosion on the eyes — a combination of MAC Silver glitter, 3D Silver, Reflects Purple Duo, and art store glitter, held in place with MAC Mixing Medium. The lips were Subculture pencil topped with Petting Pink Tinted Lip Conditioner (extremely understated).
The hair, by Ted Gibson, was Christy-Turlington-inspired 90s grunge. The models were given center parts and “texture” (with a combination of Tame It and Fix it, mixed and then scrunched into the hair). The look was meant to evoke two-days’ unwashed chic. Half the models also wore berets.
But my favorite part was the nails — or rather, fingers — by Butter London. Nonie Creme painted the models’ nails clear, then used a variety of colors (including Royal Navy, Scoundrel, Tramp Stamp, Union Jack Black, and a not-yet-available shade called Floral Orange) to paint bands on their fingers, 3-4 per hand, mostly above the first joint and between the first and second joints. They looked like hipster rings (but with no chance of accidentally getting lost).