This has been an amazing year for Chanel cosmetics. Collection after collection, they’ve just taken my breath away… and I think fall might be their best work yet.
There’s a lot to talk about for fall. The collection is named for the new eyeshadow formula it introduces (Illusions d’Ombres, sparkly “jelly” formula shadows) — but I think I’d like to talk about those last.
Even without the Illusions d’Ombres, fall is all about the eyes for me. Just take a look at Chanel’s new (and permament! Halleluia!) Prelude eyeshadow quad ($57). Its shades are grey taupe with tiny iridescent shimmer; a satin, dully gleaming beige-gold; a soft, sheer, light purple-taupe with tiny iridescent shimmers; and a sheer matte soft-black. I think this could be my favorite Chanel quad ever (supplanting Beiges de Chanel, Smoky, and Mystic Eyes).
And then! (Be still my heart!) — Khaki Platine eyeliner. It’s green-grey-silver, the color of money (American bills, anyway). Beauty too rich for use, for earth too dear. Green-silver is my favorite color, and this is one of the best executions of that color I’ve ever seen. Khaki Platine is a Crayon Yeux, a non-waterproof, regular/non-mechanical pencil. It’s $29, and limited edition.
Last on this arm is Rose Ecrin Joues Contraste blush ($43), a glowy, very soft frozen-pink (the color reminds me of Armani’s spring blush, actually). Rose Ecrin is a permanent shade; I’ve heard it’s slated to replace Rose Dust.
Fall is never my season for lipsticks. I know almost everyone in the world loves a mauve lip, but I never feel comfortable in purple.
Chanel fall gives you a plethora of lip formulas to choose from. Starting on the left, we have two Rouge Coco lipsticks ($32 each). Etole is mauvey rose; Plumetis is a muted blue-pink with very tiny blue and pink sparkles that give it a slightly shimmery quality. Both are permanent.
There are two pretty new lipliners, sheeny coral-pink Coraline and matte brick-rose (with a few tiny gold sparkles) Rose Cuivre. They’re $29, and permanent to the collection.
There are three Glossimers. Mauve creme Giggle is a repromote, but Pampille and Braise are new. Pampille is a sheer pinked peach with dense silver and light pink sparkles. Braise is a cranberry rose with pink and gold sparkles. These are $28.50 each.
Finally, there are two Rouge Double Intensite, longwearing, dual-ended lipglosses ($34). They have long-wearing, liquid-lipstick-like, full coverage gloss on one end (which can be drying if worn alone), and clear gloss in the other (for moisture and shine). Cool rose pink Rose Quartz is a repromote. I’ve heard mauvey, berry rose Rose Morganite is a U.S.-only color.
At last, the Illusions d’Ombres. These eyeshadows have a dry, resilient, spongy feel, kind of like poking a mushroom. (They’re not very wet, compared to other cream shadows). They also feel remarkably smooth for something so sparkly.
I made my swatches with my fingertips (tapping a finger on the product, then rubbing it along my arm). It would be possible to apply these more heavily, but also to apply them more sheerly.
If I were to distinguish between the finishes, I’d saw Fantasme and Mirifique are glittery, Epatant and Illusoire are sparkly, and Emerveille and Ebloui are shimmery.
Fantasme is glittery white-silver sparkles (with a few pink sparkles). Epatant is an absolutely ravishing sparkly silver-green-pewter (between Epatant and Khaki Platine, I’m in heaven). Emerveille is beige-peach shimmer. Ebloui is shimmery red-brown with a few tiny pink and green sparkles. A lot of people shy away from red shadows, but my sales associate said it’s a great shade for the lower lashline. She actually put it on me (on my lower lashline and above my top-lid eyeliner) and it “finished” my makeup beautifully.
Illusoire is a sparkly, complex, warm silver-brown taupe with a few tiny purple and green sparkles. Mirifique is a blendable sooty black with silver sparkles.
These shadows are $36 each, and come in a screw-top jar. Each shade comes with a brush, which is flat (for applying shadow to the lid), with an angled edge (for applying the product as eyeliner). My sales associate says she’s been using a flat, synthetic concealer brush to put these on customers. Creative Director for Chanel Makeup Peter Philips prefers to use his fingers. I’d like to try a fluffy blending brush (which is what I use for my Make Up For Ever Aqua Creams).
My sales associate also said these make an excellent base for powder shadows (if you want a less sparkly final look). She also recommended using Fantasme or Emerveille on the center of your lip, on top of lipstick (for a long lasting dimensional shine).
The Chanel fall nail polishes have (deservedly) been getting a lot of attention. They’re all pretty complex (and they’re each $25). Quartz is a taupey, smoky quartz brown-silver. It sort of reminds me of a darker version of Chanel Trapeze, and I’d like the color if not for the finish. It’s a frost with tiny pink and green microshimmers.
Peridot is a green-gold duochrome shimmer that can look green, gold, amber, or olive, depending on the angle. It’s like a beetle shell.
Graphite is a true looks-gritty-feels-smooth foil (it feels incredibly smooth even without a topcoat). It’s a dark steely silver foil with a lot of gold glitter. So it’s definitely, obviously grey-silver in sunlight, but looks warmer as it moves under indoor lighting. I painted one hand as I was making my arm swatches. (This is three coats, no base coat, no top coat.)
Are you as rapturous as I am? Come discuss it on Talk!