I LOVE going backstage at Mara Hoffman; she never lets me down. Mara’s aesthetic is often colorful, usually tribal, and always bohemian, and I feel like her hair and makeup teams really push themselves to add an extra dimension to her clothes. This season, Mara was inspired by Mexican painter Frida Kahlo.
DJ Riggs for Tigi wanted to give the models Frida’s signature braids. Most models have long hair — but not this long — so teams of hair stylists were on the sidelines braiding ropes of synthetic hair, intertwined with fabric from Mara’s collection.
Meanwhile, back at the chair, DJ prepped his model with TIGI Catwalk Session Series Work It Hairspray. He started by crimping just the sides of the model’s hair. The model’s natural hair would be pulled into a high ponytail and pinned to the top of the head (the structural base for the faux braid), and he wanted the visible part of the real hair to try to match the texture of the coarser braid.
He looped and pinned the braid by feel; no two models were exactly the same. And each one was finished with a piece of botanical flair — the flower of a bromeliad, or a few palm fronds.
Meanwhile, Make Up For Ever’s key artist Lottie was focused on evoking Frida through makeup. She said the key to the look was the strong brow (and strong brows turned out to be a recurring theme for many spring/summer 2012 shows). Lottie didn’t want to bring in too much color; she was more interested in sculpting and contouring the face.
She used vaseline on the eyelids (yes, she says, it creases), with tan shadow #76, and Star Powders #930 (bronze-brown) and #974. She lined the eyes with khol pencil #1K (which isn’t meant to stay put like the Aqua Eyes liners) and added Smoky Lash Mascara.
On the face, she started with MUFE’s HD foundation, then used eyeshadows 76 and 98 to contour. She gave each model her appropriate color of Uplight Illuminator, and added to that highlight Star Powders #902 (pale gold) and 974.
Pattie Yankee and the team from Dashing Diva did the nails — originally they were going to use a print, but it turned out to be too much with the clothes and hair. Instead they polished the models with Chelsea in the Buff… with one “accent model” in The Red Carpet.
And here’s the official video from Mercedes Benz Fashion Week (I think it does an excellent job of showing off both the clothes and the makeup):