Anyway, Estee Lauder’s summer collection (which gives me a bit of a 70s vibe) is on counters. The timing feels right — I think (in Texas) February was our spring.

For the past few years, Lauder has used the summer collection to reimagine a seasonal ideal they call “Bronze Goddess.” This year’s goddess is inspired by the Italian isle of Capri.

Estee Lauder is definitely still exploring the possibilities of their powder gelee formula: the summer collection contains an “all-gelee” eyeshadow quint called Bronze Sands ($45).

If this collection, as a whole, is meant to evoke the mountains, sandy beaches, and water of Capri, the eyeshadow palette does it very succinctly. The quint includes a frosty, shimmery, intense, carroty copper; a warm, iridescent, shimmery golden pearl white; a muted green-blue ocean shimmer; a tawny safari-gold shimmer/frost with a few silver sparkles; and a warm, sparkling satin rich-rust red-brown.

They say you can use the Illuminating Gelee formula wet or dry, but the pigments are already so potent, dry… does anyone use them wet?

Building on the success of the Intense Kajal Eye Crayons from the spring/Topaz collection, Capri contains one dual-ended Intense Kajal Eye Crayon Duo: Molten Lava/White Sands. I was excited to see a dark brown option in this formula, but in my limited testing thus far, the brown seems to produce more fallout than the black. The eye crayon duo is $24.

There’s also a Molten Lava nail polish ($19). It’s a deep, dark brown with tiny, subtle warm shimmers.

There’s a new Illuminating Powder Gelee for face, and I have to think this one is intended as cheek color (what do you think? How are you wearing it?). Shimmering Sands is $42, a bronze-rose with multicolored shimmer and tiny silver sparkles.

There are two Pure Color lipsticks ($25), both repromotes from the permanent line. Urban Auburn is a wine-red-brown. Tiger Eye is a shimmery, frosty, metallic, warm, iridescent bronze rose (similar to a heavy swatch of the Shimmering Sands powder, actually).

These lip colors seemed very “fall” to me, but didn’t Tom Ford also see spring/summer 2012 with a similar lip palette? Maybe we’re saying goodbye to “traditional” lip seasons. Maybe deeper hues look better on the deep (hopefully faux) tans of summer in Capri.

There’s also a new lipgloss: Shimmering Mirage ($22.50). It’s a super pale sheer yellow with gold shimmer and silver sparkles.

The return of Bronze Goddess also means the annual re-release of Bronze Goddess fragrance, as well as the launch of a new and limited edition Bronze Goddess incarnation.

Bronze Goddess smells like 70s coconut oil tanning lotion. Though it has been lovingly reviewed by many a fragrance blogger, it’s not my cup of tea. Robin of Now Smell This wrote a really excellent review and explanation of the history of this scent: in a nutshell, it was released as a body oil in 2006, then as an eau fraiche in 2007 when Mr. Ford did his infamous collaboration with the brand. It has been making an appearance every year since then, accompanied by “companion fragrance” since 2011.

I really do like Bronze Goddess Capri, though. Estee Lauder fragrances often have a very blended quality that makes it difficult for me to pick out individual notes, so all I can really say is that Capri smells very warm to me. I think it could lend an air of leisurely European-riviera-vacation to even a summer spent at home, so I’m really looking forward to making it one of my scents of this summer.

The notes of Capri, according to Estee Lauder, are cassis, mandarin, and lemon leaves (top notes), jasmine sambac, muguet, and peony (heart), and vanilla, amberwood, patchouli, and musk (base).

Both fragrances are $57 and should be considered limited. (The original Bronze Goddess won’t be back until next summer, and you never know when it might be permanently retired.)

The summer collection also repromotes Estee Lauder’s excellent (and under-appreciated, in my opinion) powder bronzers. Forgive me for not reswatching them, but you can see last year’s swatches of Soft Matte Bronzer, Soft Shimmer Bronzer, and Soft Duo Bronzer here. They are each $32. Bronze Goddess Luminous Liquid Bronzer is also back; it is $28.50.

The Bronze Goddess collection is available everywhere, but if you’re shopping online, you can get free shipping from NeimanMarcus.com (code FSMAR), Nordstrom.com, and EsteeLauder.com.

I’m a little skeptical that they used so much blush, but the breakdown sounds plausible. Anyone want to try recreating this look? Bonus points if you do the hair, too.

EYES
Pure Color eyeshadow in Ivory Slipper (from lashline to brow)
Pure Color eyeshadow in Sepia Sand (lid only — lashline to crease)
Double Wear eyeliner in Black (upper lashes only, with a flicked up wing at the end)
Automatic Brow Pencil Duo
Sumptuous Extreme Mascara in Black (top lashes)
Double Wear Zero-Smudge Mascara in Brown (bottom lashes)

CHEEKS
Creme Rouge in Evening Rose (under cheekbones)
Pure Color Blush in Lover Blush (over Evening Rose)
Pure Color Blush in Wild Sunset (apples of the cheeks)

LIPS
Double Wear Lip Pencil in Red
Lipstick in Cherry (applied with a lip brush, then blotted)

NAILS
Pure Color Nail Lacquer in Pure Red

I fell in love with the idea of this collection, and now that I have the products in hand, the shades are even more beautiful than I had imagined. But we should talk about what to expect when you open the box.

The Creme Rouge ($40) is a little smaller than you might expect for a product of its type — though I don’t really think I have cause to complain. The blush is a reasonable size, the case feels solid (even heavy), and the catch to open and close the compact is satisfying.

The lipstick, however, is small. Very small. When you pull it out of its leatherette bag, you may be tempted to compare it to GWP lipsticks from Guerlain, Chanel, or Dior. And that makes the $25 price tag feel steep.

On the left: Estee Lauder for Mad Men Cherry lipstick, .07 oz. On the right: Estee Lauder Signature Lipstick, .13 oz.

Larger than a GWP but smaller than a breadbox. Left: Guerlain Rouge Automatique GWP. Center: Estee Lauder Mad Men lipstick in Cherry. Right: Chanel GWP.

I can think of two plausible reasons for the size of these products — and the truth may be some combination of the two: (1) Estee Lauder might have had to pay major licensing fees to AMC for the rights to create a Mad Men collection, and (2) vintage cosmetics are sometimes on the small side (e.g., Besame), so maybe they were going for accuracy.

Evening Rose is a fabulous watermelon-rose-pink cream blush that delivers sheer, buildable, dewy color. Cherry lipstick is a bright, saturated, watermelon red-pink.

I was a little bit worried (based on the names, based on the preview images of the products) that these colors might prove too cool for my tastes, but I really like them both — and I think they’d suit a wide variety of skintones.

These products were provided for swatching purposes.

The collection is hot, and for me evoked a sundrenched Caribbean island. Estee Lauder’s creative director Tom Pecheux says he was inspired by the Arizona desert. Either way, I feel warmer just looking at it. Topaz is a semi-precious gem that I first think of as yellow (though I’ve seen blue topaz as well). If, like me, you enjoy collecting random facts, click here to learn more about the gemstone.

The collection includes a Pure Color eyeshadow quint (possibly my favorite Lauder eyeshadow palette to-date) and their second ever Pure Color Illuminating Powder Gelee.

Pure Color Five Color Eyeshadow Palette 21 Topaz Mosaic is glorious. Every shade is so smooth and pigmented. The combination of colors is just neutral enough that I feel like I could wear it often, but includes shades I don’t already own (and suddenly need: orange, yellow). It’s versatile but not quirky or one-note. I really think this is the best Estee Lauder quint I can remember swatching.

The palette includes a satin pumpkin, a shimmery tawny golden sand, a satin daffodil yellow, a low-shimmer beige-peach, and a satin red wood-brown. It is $45, limited edition.

Modern Mercury (fall 2011) included Estee Lauder’s first Illuminating Powder Gelee, a shimmery “gel-powder” that could be applied wet or dry. Because it was the first of its kind, that sparkly beige-pink highlighter didn’t have a shade name.

This collection launches the second (also limited edition) Illuminating Powder Gelee, a shimmering, sparkling, warming golden copper highlight that can be used on eye or cheek. It’s 01 Topaz Chameleon, $40, and I swatched it dry (first lightly, then heavily, with a triangle sponge).

This collection introduces Pure Color Intense Kajal Eye Crayons, a chubby pencil eyeliner semi-inspired by the chalk-type kajal eyeliners you can so easily buy in India. The sales associate explained (and it makes sense) that the very sharp point will help you draw a more precise line.

Even though it’s a simple, basic black eyeliner (and maybe a silly thing to lust over), I adore 01 Dramatic Black. I tried it on at the counter and it went on so smoothly and easily. It was actually very easy to apply a thin black line to my inner rim (I tightlined with it, too). Since I applied in the afternoon on a cold day (difficult  to test heat-/humidity-proofing or wear time), I showered and napped in it — no fallout, no smudging.

The new Kajal Eye Crayon is not the same as taller, thinner Intense Kajal Eyeliner that just came out with the Cyber Eyes collection. These chubby crayons have a little less fallout, and they’re a little softer.

Whenever I see the word “kajal” or “kohl” on an eyeliner, I assume it’s meant to be used on the waterline (that it depends on the moisture of your eye to fix it). Kohls are usually smudgy when used on the upper lashline.

The Intense Kajal Crayons are $22 each, available in 01 Dramatic Black and 03 Dramatic Teal. And can you believe they’re limited edition?? Why oh why?

This collection includes three Sensuous Rouge lipsticks ($28, semi-sheer with a moisturizing core and a vanilla scent). 15 Sublime Nectar is new and limited edition, a sheer creme peach-pink. 03 Sensuous Nude and 02 Sultry Caramel are repromotes from the permanent line. (Sensuous Nude: a sheer peach caramel nude that I’m still in love with. Sultry Caramel: shimmery russet red-brown.)

There’s also a new, limited edition Pure Color lipgloss ($22.50). 50 Citron Kiss is sheer yellow with silver sparkles. As I learned with the yellow gloss in Alice + Olivia, yellow glosses settle down into a kind of honey color on the lips. Backstage at fashion week last September, Tom Pecheux explained that yellow gloss is the perfect transitional item to warm up your fall and winter lipsticks, and keep wearing them into spring. Try using it to tone down a too-bright red or pink.

There’s just one limited edition nail polish: 28 Teal Topaz ($19). I found a sales associate wearing it, and she agreed to be my hand model.

Teal Topaz is a teal creme that’s opaque in two coats (indoor lighting makes it look a little more green). I thought it reminded me of Ocean Dip from last summer’s MAC Surf Baby, but it’s deeper, more subdued, not as bright. The color also reminds me of this old Chevy I saw at a stoplight.

This collection is available everywhere Estee Lauder is sold, though NeimanMarcus.com is in gift right now (plus free shipping with code SHIPNM).

Do you love this collection as much as I do?

In recent years Estee Lauder has put more focus on attracting that new, younger customer (most notably by hiring cutting-edge, color-loving makeup master Tom Pecheux as their creative director). I’ve thought the fig scent in their lipsticks was holding them back, and I am really happy to see (smell) a change. I hope this is the start of a trend for them.

Pure Color Sensuous Rouge lipsticks are $28 each (and if you’re not near a counter, Nordstrom now ships for free).

Sultry Caramel is a nutty brown shimmer. Sensuous Nude is a honey-nude, and I LOVE it. I don’t usually go for nude lipsticks, but I’m suddenly obsessed with non-concealer-lips nudes (and Sensuous Nude is just perfect).

Decadent Fig is a figgy red-orange-brown. And then you have a lot of pink options. Enticing Fuchsia is bright, shimmery blue-rose fuchsia. Rose Exposed is warm red-pink rose. Pink Seduction is cool pink. Orchid Surrender is a shimmery mauve-pink. Wistful Wisteria is a shimmery blue rose (deeper and more saturated than Pink Seduction).

Plum Fatale is shimmery wine. Peach Pleasure is light peach. Curvaceous Coral is a deeper coral. Cheating Heart is violet rose.

Modern Mercury starts with three Pure Color Eyeshadow Duos (each $30). These are the new formula powders (first introduced with Blue Dahlia. This also means Estee’s singles, duos, and quints are now all the same formula) — more vibrant and blendable, and they can be used wet or dry.

Platinums is actually a permanent addition to the line. It features a matte white and a frosty silver-purple. Modern Mercury and Black Chrome are both limited edition. Modern Mercury offers a sheer, almost silvery satin white and a softly shimmery cool grey. Black Chrome includes a matte black and a sheerer black with sparkles.

It also seems that Chanel isn’t the only brand thinking matte lips for fall. Estee is introducing the new Pure Color Matte formula (in just three shades for now, but I’m sure more are on the horizon). Each new matte shade is paired with its non-matte Pure Color “twin,” but I think Fuchsia Fever is new. All six lipsticks are $24.

Nude Velvet is matte, warm, peach-pink beige. Beige is a deeper, mauvier pink. Red Velvet is fire-engine, cherry red. Scarlet Siren is a little bit cooler and pinker. Fuchsia Velvet is schiap, fuchsia pink. Fuchsia Fever is cooler, bluer.

The shadows and lips are pretty, but I got most excited about the unexpected pieces in this collection. First, everybody’s been talking about the Pure Color Illuminating Powder Gelée, which Estee describes as powder-liquid-gel.

It’s intended as face highlight, but I think you could also use it on the eyes. It’s a very sparkly beige-pink with a multicolored rainbow of sparkles. It’s $40 and limited edition.

Nail polish connoisseurs (who change colors every other day, who are bored with “normal” reds and pinks, who are always on the hunt for that new, different, edgy, unusual shade) are going to love limited edition Metallic Sage ($19). It’s dirty, muddy olive with copper shimmers/tiny sparkles.

And finally, don’t you love the (permanent!) liquid liners? Black Quartz (which I think is actually shade 02) is black with silver sparkles. Graphite (which I think is shade 01) is gunmetal dark, steely grey silver with silver sparkles. Silver Zinc (rowr!) is a pewtery, cool, metallic golden brown. Each liner is $21, with a narrow conical sponge applicator.

What do you think, readers? Which pieces are your must-haves?

I always love Estee Lauder’s summer collection, but I think this year’s is really spectacular.

The blush is $34 and it is limited edition.

This year’s collection (Bronze Goddess Soleil) definitely has that Tom Pecheux flair. The eyes are bright and tropical; the lips are beautiful and wearable.

The Island Oasis eyeshadow palette ($42, limited edition) features six punchy colors: a dark, matte green-black with yellow-green sparkles, a lion-yellow gold shimmer, a lagoon-blue shimmer, a rose-gold duochrome shimmer, a foxy red-brown shimmer, and a sheerish, pinky-beige white.

The ShadowStick Duos are dual-ended chubby pencils ($20, limited edition). You can wear them as liner or smudge them into shadow. 01 Gold Bronze is a very tawny, very yellow gold plus a warm yellow brown. 02 Pink Teal is duochrome pink-gold paired with seafoam teal green.

Tiramisu Pure Color Lipstick ($24) is a soft raspberry pink, which I think will be “my lips but better” for a lot of ladies. I don’t believe this color is limited edition, so fall in love freely.

The three Pure Color Lipglosses ($20) have doe’s foot applicators. Plum Divine is sheer plum with gold and pink sparkles. Blazing Coral is sheer orange with gold and pink sparkles. Sunburst is warm pink with gold sparkles.

Shimmering Bronze nail polish ($19) is limited to this collection; it’s a red-brown frost.

And for ladies who prefer liquid bronzer to powder, Bronze Goddess Liquid is $28.50. It’s buildable; this is a heavy swatch.

Yes, I did save the best for last. Did you ladies know how incredible Estee Lauder bronzers are? Why didn’t you tell me?

The first three bronzers in this photo (01 Soft Matte, 02 Soft Shimmer, and 03 Soft Duo) are permanent to the collection — halleluia! Estee Lauder’s bronzers are amazing.

I swatched them first light/medium, intending to layer more on for a “heavy” swatch. But even as I piled on the product (with a sponge), they never got too deep in color, too powdery or cakey in appearance. This is actually the heavy swatch — I didn’t think my two photos were different enough to warrant posting both.

Soft Shimmer looks quite sparkly in the pan — and I expected it to deliver MAC- or Bobbi Brown-level sparkle, but the sparkle was actually incredibly subtle on the skin.

My first choice for myself would probably be the lightest, peachiest Soft Duo Bronzer (its full name is 03 Soft Duo Bronzer – Medium. I don’t know if there was ever a “duo – light” or a “duo – dark”). The bronzers are $30 each.

And finally! The flagship piece of this collection: the highly coveted Sea Star Bronzing Blush ($34). You’ll know this year’s blush on sight; the two tone powder has a starfish that goes all the way through to the pan. I blended the two shades together to achieve the pretty peach-pink you see in the swatch.

As you already know, famed makeup artist Tom Pecheux is now the creative director for Estee Lauder — and Tom loves color. Estee Lauder recently reformulated and relaunched their nail polish (Pure Color Nail Lacquer, $19). The launch included eight permanent shades (available everywhere Estee Lauder is sold), and eight limited edition shades, exclusive to Nordstrom. Wild Blue is one of those Nordstrom shades.

I love how bold the Nordstrom collection is! Chocolate Crave is a deep chocolate-cherry creme, like the color of deep mahogany wood stain. Violet Diva is a blue-purple creme (quite opaque, even in one coat). Wicked Green is lush, dragon green creme, and I should have done a third coat. It looked opaque to my naked eye, but didn’t quite photograph that way. Wild Blue is intense, bright, cerulean blue creme. Perfect Storm is a charcoal microshimmer — I love the texture. It’s much more interesting than a frost, I think. Mega Fuchsia is fuchsia creme. Oyster Cult is a shimmery cool silver. Sizzling Taupe is a blond-brown frost.

After the derring-do of the limited edition shades, the permanent line seems more conventional (though I do love a nice vibrant creme, especially for summer). Frozen Fantasy is a shell-pink/brown-pink with silver shimmer. Fuchsia Flame is a bright, hot, red-pink. Pure Red is a warm red creme. Ultra Violet (first introduced with Estee’s summer 2010 Bronze Goddess Collection, nail-swatched here) is a deep red-purple with purple sparkles. Purple Passion is a vivid, orchidy, pinked purple. Rosa Rosa is a dusty red-rose pink. Enchanted Garnet is a deep (but sheerish) blood red. Hot Coral is bright coral.

See any shades you can’t live without?