From people who like that medium-to-full coverage, I’ve heard nothing but praise for Perfection Lumiere’s longevity. I don’t like that much coverage myself, and in my in-store test, I found the finish a little mask-y. I also didn’t find a shade match I just loved.

The shades are divided into BR (beige rose, the pink shades), B (beige, the yellow shades), BA (beige ambre, the golden shades), and A (ambre, the amber shades). It’s refreshing to see Chanel offer such a wide selection of colors.

Perfection Lumiere is $55 and contains SPF 10.  It also smells like Hydramax (Chanel’s moisturizing serum, which I would describe as having a light, pleasant, “tea-like” skincare scent). I really like Hydramax’s scent, so I consider that a plus.

Here are blended out swatches by color family. I wasn’t sure if it was easier to see the Beige Rose with or without dividing lines, so I did them both ways:

That sounds like science fiction, but I am surprised to say I actually really like this foundation. The coverage is medium-to-full, and it’s buildable. I applied it to my face with my fingers and didn’t think it looked obvious or too heavy. (Perhaps my sunscreen helped me sheer it out; moisturizer would probably also do the trick.)

It looks good in person, and it photographs well (though I haven’t yet experimented with a flash). One of my makeup artists likened it to Armani’s Luminous Silk Foundation — the soft-focus pigments makes it look really perfect, especially from a distance. Another artist, looking at the dried swatches on my arm, remarked that it has a “watercolor” finish. MAC calls it “demi-matte,” but I like the watercolor description.

The Matchmaster formula offers MAC’s lightest and darkest shades of foundation. The new numbering system is supposed to reflect that this foundation matches YOUR undertone (so there is no “N,” no “C,” no “W” — just numbers that express the depth of color). It’s $32.50 (and contains SPF 15).

Here are heavy swatches, made with disposable lipbrushes (so I could fit all 14 shades on my arm):

And here are blended out swatches, applied with my fingertips (I thought it sheered out pretty easily; I could definitely have applied more heavily):


1.0 was my perfect match.

Naturally, the best way to find your match is to try a foundation on, but in case that’s not an option for you, MAC created a loose translation guide, converting shades of Studio Fix Fluid to Matchmaster (some Studio Fix shades are right on the line, and could match two Matchmaster shades, so they’re listed twice).

Light
N18, NC15 – 1.0
NW15, NW18, NW20 – 1.5

Light Medium
NW18, NW20, NW22, NC20, NC25 – 2.0
NW22, NW25, NC30 – 3.0

Medium
NW25, NW30, NC35, NC37 – 4.0
NC40, NC41, NC42 – 5.0
NW33, NW35, NC43.5, NC44, NC44.5 – 6.0

Medium Dark
NW40, NW43, NC45 – 7.0
NC50, NC55 – 7.5
NW44, NW45 – 8.0

Dark
NW46, NW47 – 8.5
NW48, NW50 – 9.0

Deep Dark
NW50, NW55 – 9.5
NW58, NW60, W60 – 10.0
Foundations NW60 and W60 don’t exist anymore; they were discontinued. However MAC says 10.0 will match anyone NW58 and deeper.

MAC’s Mineralize Skinfinish Natural (or MSFN) are baked “skintone” powders which contain light-reflectors for a natural satin finish. You can use them as finishing powder — or by themselves, as light foundation. Lauren happens to have quite a range of shades (in her kit), and very kindly swatched them.

Lauren is NC25, but says her forearm is lighter. Photos taken indoors, with flash, next to a window. Click to view the photos at full size.

Here are her thoughts on MSFN:

As a professional makeup artist, I routinely come across clients with all different skin types and skintones. I’ve found that regardless which formula I use on someone, the Mineralize Skinfinish Naturals make foundation look ten times better and more natural. They give a realistic “skin” finish (no pun intended) — not matte, and not shiny.

These are the guidelines I use for matching shades to skintones:
Light – NC15, NC20, NW15
Light Plus – NC20, NC25
Medium – NW20, NW25
Medium Plus – NC30, NW25
Medium Dark – NC35, NC40, NW30
Medium Deep – NC42, NC44, NW35
Dark – NC45, NW40
Deep Dark – NC50, NC55, NW45, NW50, NW55

A little known fact about MSFNs: they can be applied wet for a fuller-coverage foundation. Simply run a small, dense powder brush (like MAC’s 109 or 168) under a faucet, swirl in the product, and apply.

When applying MSFNs dry, just about any powder brush will do. I prefer the 187 (“skunk” or “stippling” brush). You can use a smaller, denser brush for more coverage, or you can use a larger, fluffier brush for a light dusting.

As mentioned before, they pair well with any foundation. I also like using the light shade for a more matte highlight on my cheeks when I don’t feel like using something shimmery.

Mineralize Skinfinish Natural are $27 each.

There are 18 shades in all. Sheila is approximately NC25, and wears Dior 020, Jill Stuart 103, and Chanel B20. She guessed that 120 or 125 would be her closest match. She also reports that shades ending in a 0 are more yellow; shades ending in 5 are more pink/peach.



Sheila also says there wasn’t really enough product for her to comment on the texture or performance (and I agree). Those of you who’ve tried it, I’d really love to hear what you think.

Armani recently introduced seven new shades of LSF (including more decimal places than ever before). So I swatched the new shades together:

Click here for my previous swatches of Luminous Silk Foundation.

3.75, 4.75, and 5.25 look more pink than the old shades. 5.75 looks peachy. And I’m glad Armani brought back some darker shades with 10, 11.5, and 13.

I also wanted to show you all the shades together, so you could compare undertone and depth of shade. Narrow swatches were the only way to fit them all on one arm.  (Obviously I still need to do a full set of blended out swatches, but that’s a project for another day.)

Luminous Silk Foundation is $59.

Cue Dior’s sexy and sweltering Electric Tropics, arriving on counters now (though you’ll notice that my display was missing a few pieces. Hopefully I’ll be able to track them down and we can discuss them in another post).

Electric Tropics contains two eyeshadow quints: 754 Rosy Tan and 534 Rosy Nude. Each quint is $58; Rosy Nude will not be available in Sephora. The two quints seem conceptually similar, and the other pieces of this collection makes me think that Rosy Nude is the “fair” quint and Rosy Tan is the “deeper skintone” quint. (Though, as always, wear what you feel.)

Rosy Tan contains a bubblegum pink satin, a red-brown shimmer, a white-pink shimmer (it looks white; there’s a hint of pink), a golden brown shimmer (too warm to be called taupe), and a very slightly pinked tan satin.

Rosy Nude includes a white-pink frost, a pale peach frost, a carnation pink shimmer, a golden tan satin, and an iridescent pale shimmery pink with gold sparkles.

One of the most anticipated items of the summer collection is the “basketweave” Nude Healthy Glow Powder. This limited edition blush/bronzer comes in two shades: 001 Aurora and 002 Sunset (each $46). Aurora is a beautiful slightly pinked peach with subtle gold sparkles. Sunset is deeper, more yellow/orange peach with subtle gold sparkles. The texture is lovely and both powders are beautiful.

There’s also Nude Healthy Glow Summer Fluid. My sales associate explained that this product is not exactly a foundation, but a light tinted liquid, for use over makeup or alone (instead of foundation), meant to impart a bronzed glow. She explained that it’s lightweight and won’t run or crack on those hot days when you just don’t feel like putting on foundation.

Nude Healthy Glow Summer Fluid is $46, and comes in more pink 001 Rosy Nude and more yellow 002 Honey Nude.

There are four “Ultra Gloss Crystal Nude” lipglosses ($27, brush wand applicator).  No joke: these are clear and effectively identical to one another. They feel nice enough; not at all sticky on my arm.

037 is Luminescent Peach (not available in Sephora). 047 is Sweet Peach. 077 is Luminescent Rose (not available in Sephora). 087 is Sweet Rose (not available in Sephora).

There’s also one limited edition Dior Addict Lipstick, super sexy, sheer red-orange 545 Fire (no pun intended, but dang, that’s hot).

The other “gotta have it” element of the collection are two electric nail polishes, bright orange 638 Aloha and bright pink 558 Paradise Pink. Paradise Pink is exclusive to Saks; Aloha is available everywhere.

Best of all, each polish is bundled with a top coat, and the two-packs go for $26 (a steal, since Dior polishes are regularly $21 apiece). I hope to find and swatch these soon.

If you’re not already a die-hard LMdB fan, you’ve most likely heard of at least one of two products: Their “Kaleidoscope” eyeshadow towers and/or Peau Vierge**.

Peau Vierge is a lightweight foundation. Or, if you prefer more coverage, it’s a tinted primer for use under another foundation. Or I believe you can even mix it in with your foundation — there are no firm rules.

Peau Vierge contains retinols (an anti-aging ingredient derived from vitamin A, which promotes the sloughing off of old skin cells and increases the rate of new cell production). But Peau Vierge also claims a unique delivery system (Syntoc Actif), which is said to deliver its active ingredient deeper than other products on the market. This “deep” delivery is supposed to help you avoid the side effects commonly associated with retinol use: redness, dryness, flaking, irritation.

Peau Vierge claims to improve collagen production, moisturize, fade brown spots, and smooth fine lines. Actually, it promises to do it in seven days. It’s oil-free, SPF 20, and contains anti-inflammatory and anti-redness ingredients — good for both oily and sensitive skin. My sales associate rather hilariously said, “if you don’t want to become utterly addicted, I recommend not trying it.”

Until recently, Peau Vierge came in two shades: Light to Medium and Medium to Dark. They’ve introduced a third shade (#1) and switched over to a numerical system. (Light to Medium is now #2; Medium to Dark is now #3).

I did make heavy swatches, but I was a little surprised by how glowy shades 2 and 3 are. Shade 1 is my closest match — maybe a hair too dark, but, as with any sheer foundation, it can be blended out.

Peau Vierge foundation is $125 (and truly, one pump is plenty for your whole face). Le Metier national artist Ivan Castro said that he prefers to apply with fingers, so no product is wasted.

*If you’re in England, LMdB is sold in Selfridges. If you’re in France, they’re carried by Printemps. If you’re in Hong Kong, they’re sold in Joyce Boutiques.

**I feel I should mention that Peau Vierge (the foundation) spawned a whole series of Peau Vierge products. LMdB also offers Peau Vierge concealer and Peau Vierge lash growth serum. All PV products utilize the same Syntoc Actif delivery system.

The yellow shades are the “Beige” shades; pink are “Beige Rose.” My best match was B10 (Beige – Pastel), but I almost felt I could get away wearing BR10. This foundation kind of melds with your skin as you blend it.

Every sales associate I’ve talked to so far has recommended applying with fingers, then finishing with a brush or sponge (as needed).

Wanders was given free rein on the packaging design (and I think he named the lipsticks and glosses), but had no hand in the shade selection.

Sheer Mystery Powders have become an annual holiday tradition for MAC (they’re not available as part of MAC’s permanent line). The Mystery Powders are matte finishing powders (for that classic, 40s, Dita Von Teese look). By contrast, Mineralized Skinfinish Natural contains light reflectors for more of a satin finish.

For $60, you’ll get the keepsake compact (which has one pan of powder in it), and a powder refill.  For previous years’ swatches of the Sheer Mystery Powders (more swatches are always better), revisit Baroque Boudoir or Hello Kitty/Kitty Kouture.

There are four lipsticks, $22 each. Martha is a Frost; Gesina, Catharina, and Digna are “Cream” — not a formula that normally exists in the MAC line.

Martha is a peach-pink-beige, and though I don’t normally go for MAC’s Frost lipsticks, I’ve been so attracted to this kind of peachy nude color lately. It’s not a very frosty Frost, and I didn’t find it drying (sometimes a problem for me and the Frosts).

Gesina is a blue, cherry red (a cool, pinked red). Catharina is a cool, vibrant medium pink. Digna is burgundy, and perhaps a bit more sheer than the other two.

The lipglosses are also $22 each. Mary is sheer yellow with gold sparkles; Beatrix is peach-brown with multicolored sparkles. Aleydis is a sheer almost-creme (it has a few very subtle pink sparkles, but I don’t think you’ll notice them on the lip). Gertruyd is a sheer cherry-chocolate with multicolored sparkles.

There are a few other pieces in the collection: a limited edition 187 large “skunk”/duo-fibre brush ($75; think of it as a piece of collectible, functional, Marcel Wanders art). There’s also a clutch for $65.

There’s also a new mascara, and I’m so surprised that this isn’t getting more buzz.  It’s called “False Lashes” and by all accounts, it is the reincarnated Prescriptives False Eyelashes formula (my old favorite!).  It’s Prescriptives-priced at $18, which is nice because it, too, comes in limited edition packaging.

“Air of  Style” perfume is also back — in solid form, in a darling little keepsake pendant. It’s actually reasonably priced at $30, and the dominant note for me is tuberose (or jasmine, or a related white flower).

Top: Red dates, wild red peonies, island cypress, and white pepper
Heart: Tuberose, orange blossom, jasmin, ylang-ylang, orris
Base: Touch of leather, antique woods, vetiver, amber crystals, tonka beans

Creme Smooth foundation has an interesting texture: it’s like pudding in a jar, though the sales associate assured me that it spreads and blends like a dream (gliding over the skin, she said, not settling into lines). She also said it’s the first Laura Mercier foundation that is specifically recommended for application with fingers.

To my surprise, the sales associates said Creme Smooth’s coverage was not as full as Silk Creme; it provides medium, buildable coverage (and they strongly recommended using it with a primer).

Creme Smooth is Laura’s first treatment foundation (though, as with almost all treatment foundations, it shouldn’t replace your regular skincare). It contains Dermaxyl (a line-reducer, said to help with moisture retention) and is best for normal-to-dry skin. According to the sales associates, you should see reduced lines and wrinkles in four weeks of use.

Creme Smooth comes in 12 shades. A 1 oz jar is $50.