The small foyer downstairs

I’m feeling extremely jetsetting, readers. Lucky Magazine just hosted the first “west coast edition” of their Fashion and Beauty Bloggers (FABB) conference in L.A., so I made my first trip to the city of angels. It was a pretty quick trip, but I managed to squeeze in a pilgrimage to Kate Somerville’s clinic in Hollywood.

As you may recall from previous posts, a friend introduced to the Kate Somerville brand about a year ago, and I have since fallen deeply in love. Every product I’ve tried does everything it claims, and a consistent “Kate” regimen means perfect skin for me. I could easily, happily use almost every product she makes… but I guess the folks at Neiman Marcus might object to my living at their counter.

Kate’s medi-spa (she has just the one location in Hollywood) goes way beyond your usual facials and body treatments — though, obviously, they do those very well. They offer a variety of lights and lasers (to treat rosacea, acne, sun spots, scarring, lack of firmness, milia, hyperpigmentation), injectables, Botox, hair removal — you name it. The clinic is staffed by an amazing team of doctors, nurse practitioners, registered nurses, and aestheticians.

Spiral staircase up to the main floor

The space is so beautiful, and SO aligned with the brand. Everything is white and elegant and sunlit (though shades are always drawn in the treatment rooms, of course). The building actually used to be a private home (Sean Connery used to live here! And Johnny Depp!).

Though I came in the front door, clients who might be eluding the paparazzi can slip up the back stairs — Kate not only has a sterling reputation for her treatments, but also for her discretion.

I scheduled a signature facial. I already knew I liked the products, and (especially after the flight) I was really looking forward to the facial. But I was also curious to learn how a Kate Clinic experience differed from what I’ve already enjoyed at the counter in Dallas.

Every Neiman Marcus Kate Somerville counter (and many Nordstrom counters) offers DermalQuench facials as a complimentary gift with purchase.

The key to a DermalQuench facial is an airbrushing machine, which sprays a superfine mist of hyaluronic acid and vitamins, followed by oxygen (which has antibacterial properties). It is total instant gratification — immediate hydration, reduced fine lines, and “glow” without oiliness or irritation. You look fabulous from the moment you get out of the chair. If you haven’t tried it already, I highly recommend it.

At the top of the stairs

The signature facial doesn’t use the DermalQuench machine, but no one leaves the Clinic without “the Kate glow.” I knew I was in good hands with the lovely and very knowledgeable Lili.

Lili started by washing my face with Kate’s Gentle cleanser (to remove makeup/sunscreen). This product is sulfate-free and protects the skin’s natural barrier — a must for dry and sensitive skin.

She followed with Kate’s Detox cleanser, which she used in conjunction with a Clarisonic. The Detox cleanser contains phytic acid to help fade acne scars, and vitamin B complexes to prevent over-drying.

She then gently ran a vibrating metal ultrasound wand over my skin. She explained that this tool helps slough off dead cells, stimulates cell turnover, and improves circulation. It also improves product absorption.

The reception area

After the ultrasound, she applied the famous ExfoliKate. ExfoliKate contains mechanical beads, as well as lactic acid (an alpha hydroxy acid, which causes dead cells to fall off, stimulates skin cells to reproduce, and promotes the production of collagen, which increases skin’s elasticity). Lili explained that mechanical exfoliators loosen dead skin cells, but you really need a chemical exfoliator to lift them away. ExfoliKate also contains papaya, pineapple, and pumpkin enzymes, as well as cinnamon to enhance circulation. As you can imagine, it smells delicious.

Normally, Lili would perform extractions at this stage, but I asked if we could skip that step. I believe facial skin is too delicate for the procedure. Every time I consent to extractions it hurts, I regret it, and my face is really red afterwards… plus I can’t really see a before-and-after benefit.

The next step was probably my favorite: a blueberry-and-honey hydrating mask. Though this is a proprietary Kate product, it’s not (currently) available for sale — so the only place to experience it is in the Clinic. Lili applied a thick layer of this super hydrating, super-antioxidant mask to my face, then gave me a shoulder massage while it “dried” (a transformation I didn’t even notice). I truly lost track of the passage of time, but when she’d finished the massage, she peeled off the mask in one thrillingly stretchy, flexible, solid sheet. It was reminded me of my elementary school days, rubbing Elmer’s glue on my palm, then peeling it off in as large a piece as possible. This mask is usually part of the Pregnancy Facial (a baby-friendly regimen that focuses on hydration, calming, de-puffing, and gently soothing the skin).

Doorway to the treatment rooms

Even though the Signature Facial doesn’t use the DermalQuench machine, Lili gave me an extra dose of hydration with Kate’s new use-it-at-home DermalQuench Liquid Lift (a shake-and-spray portable version of Kate’s wonder machine).

Treatment complete, she got me ready to hit the road with Kate’s anti-dark-circle CytoCell eye cream (which contains synthetic stem cells, peptides that promote cell turnover, and caffeine for circulation). And Oil-Free Moisturizer.

I confess, Oil-Free is just about the only Kate moisturizer I haven’t tried — I’m not super oily, so I had overlooked it. Lili said that I might really like Oil-Free for summer, because the formula is light but extremely hydrating. She said it contains red marine algae, which helps with skin elasticity, and peptides which reduce the appearance of wrinkles. Dammit, Lili, this was one of the FEW Kate products I thought I didn’t need to possess.

We finished (of course), with Kate’s oil-free SPF 55, on face, chest, and arms.

Indulge me while I walk you through a few more photos of the spa:

Nook leading to two of the Clinic's twenty treatment rooms. I have wallpaper envy.

One of the smaller treatment rooms

A demonstration of a red LED light, which stimulates collagen production. This thing gets BRIGHT.

The back stairs, where the celebs sneak in!

Okay, so the Clinic is beautiful. But my FAVORITE space is the enormous, high-ceilinged room off the main reception area. The walls are lined with products and copies of Kate’s book, and the room is fantastically lit by a floor-to-ceiling window that takes up almost an entire wall.

In front of that window is a makeup station — the most wonderful makeup station in the world. It’s a lucite desk, so you don’t block any of the light from the window. Ordinarily they have a makeup artist (slash brow artist, slash lash tech) there — for anyone who would prefer not to leave the Clinic completely au natural. I still had my suitcase (and all my makeup) with me, so I asked if I could do my makeup there before I left. (I knew the situation in the hotel room was going to be pretty dismal.) They graciously said to take all the time I need.

My favorite room

It was the most wonderful vanity setup I’ve ever seen. I’ve never seen my makeup application so clearly! Someday, I want one just like this.

I want one of those

Of course, it helped that my skin was looking pretty awesome, too. Yeah, I skipped foundation.

Kanebo is a big Japanese company with many brands (kind of like P&G here in the U.S.). The most prestige, most luxurious of their brands is Sensai — and it’s not sold in Japan. I’ve heard it’s big in Europe (and is currently infiltrating America, clearly). Click here for a nifty map of Kanebo’s cosmetics brands, and where they are sold.

Sensai’s goal is to deliver the best possible experience at every level. Not only do they spend decades researching anti-aging ingredients, but (for example) they do MRIs on the folks testing their products, to make sure that the scent of the product is as calming and enjoyable as possible (brainwaves don’t lie). I know I’m taking the red pill here, but I’m intrigued by everything this brand has to offer.

Their line is built around one amazing ingredient: Koishimaru Silk. Someone observed that the women who spin the silk have beautiful hands, despite working in harsh conditions. More rigorous testing revealed that this particular type of silk (once reserved for members of the imperial court) encourages production of hyaluronic acid in the skin. Once skin is moisturized (externally) and hydrated (internally, by the body’s production of hyaluronic acid), it is better to prepared to receive other anti-aging ingredients — like the seaweed extract in Sensai’s Premier line. Koishimaru Silk in the lipsticks helps both pigment and skincare better adhere to the lips. Every product in Sensai’s line (even the color cosmetics) includes some element of treatment.

Japan has a reputation for excellence in skincare (which many of us might have glimpsed in Memoirs of a Geisha). Sensai’s ritual is called saho (a word borrowed from the tea ceremony, which refers to the steps of the ritual). The gist of it is:

• Double Cleanse: when cleaning your face at the end of the day, you first use an oil-based cleanser (choose your formula according to preference), then a gentle soap (choose your formula according to skintype). The oil-based cleanser takes off makeup and sebum. The water-based cleanser washes away dead skin cells and environmental pollution. The two-step process is neither stripping nor drying, though step 2 alone is sufficient for your morning wash.

• Double Moisturize: There’s no toner after your two-step cleanse. Instead, you apply a preparatory “moisture primer” (which Sensai refers to as a lotion), followed by moisturizer (which is either an emulsion or a cream — creams are a little thicker/heavier). The lotion helps the emulsion absorb more effectively.
• Double Application: Not as crazy as it sounds, double application just means massaging, then patting in both the lotion and the emulsion.

The Sensai skincare line is extensive, but to give a simplified, topline view, the Silk line is meant to delay the signs of aging, the Cellular Performance line (the largest category) is meant to address the first signs of aging, and the Premier line is meant to reverse the signs of aging. (The cleansing products are all called Silky Purifying.)

To use myself as an example, my saho might be oil cleanser (because I love oil cleanser), followed by creamy soap (because I have normal-to-dry skin). Then, because my skin is on the dry side (but not Sahara-esque), I might use either Cellular Performance Lotion II (Moist) or the new Prime Solution (more about Prime Solution in a minute), followed by Cellular Performance Emulsion II (Moist).

Playing around with this table of skincare products really helped me better understand the organization of the Sensai line. Apparently I’m a little too young for their Wrinkle Repair or Lifting categories, which is how I decided on the Standard Series Lotions and Emulsions. You can also get customized product suggestions by phone, from the wonderful people at the Kanebo counter in Bergdorfs: 1-800-558-1855.

If (like me) you’re just dipping your toe into the world of Sensai, some of their star products are:

• their Silk Peeling Powder, a pre-measured dose of powder that (with water) turns into a super gentle exfoliator
• their new Prime Solution, the ultimate “lotion” (first moisturizer) for hydration and anti-aging effectiveness. Any skin type can use this lotion — and even if you’re not ready to switch over to Sensai completely, Prime Solution makes any moisturizer 40% more effective. Not only does it enhance hyaluronic acid production in both the dermis and the epidermis, but hawthorne extract improves cellular communication.
• So when designing my own saho, I could choose either the Cell Performance Lotion II, or trade up to Prime Solution. (Prime Solution is more expensive, but everyone who’s tried it so far says it’s worth it.)
• 38 Degrees mascara (which is available in original, volumizing, and lengthen-and-separating formula. There’s also a mascara primer, aka “base” — prices range from $25 to $32). This is a tubing mascara which comes off in 103° water (no makeup remover required).
• their Sponge Chief. This is such an unusual product. It’s a neoprene, anti-bacterial “sponge”/face towel. You use it (with warm water) to wash off your step 1 cleanser, and once you’ve used it, there is apparently no going back. It pulls off everything (makeup, dirt, dead skin) and dries hard between uses.

Sensai’s color line is probably a story for another day, but I was interested to learn that their color philosophy relies on kasane, the layering of sheer colors (like layering sheer fabrics in a kimono). The idea sounds pretty similar to Le Metier de Beaute’s couches de couleur, doesn’t it?

Do you already use Sensai? Are you a fan of their skincare, their color, or both? And if you’re not already familiar with the brand, would you be willing to practice saho twice a day, if it meant perfect skin?

Kelly St. John is the Vice President Divisional Merchandise Manager (DMM) for NeimanMarcus.com and BergdorfGoodman.com. She’s basically the head of the online buying team. Random trivia: Kelly is also friends with Bliss founder Marcia Kilgore, and an early adopter of the products (or in her words, “a longtime crazy Bliss fan”). Kelly was even one of the brand’s early product testers.

Though we came for facials, you can get almost anything done at a Bliss spa: body treatments, massage, nail services — even short-term or long-term hair removal. They also have showers and a sauna, and I entertained fantasies of “accidentally” getting locked in overnight (Paddington Bear-style).

A Bliss facial is like a multi-course meal for your senses (and your skin). My aesthetician started with Clog Dissolving Cleansing Milk (which smells like orange), followed by an eye mask (cucumber), while he took a look at my skin under brighter lights. He followed with Brightening Exfoliating Enzyme Treatment (which kind of tingles). To help the treatment work, he covered my skin (not my nose or mouth, obviously) with saran wrap, over which he placed hot towels.

While the Brightening Exfoliating Treatment was working its magic, he gave me a shoulder and hand massage with Blood Orange + White Pepper Body Butter (my fave Bliss “flavor”). Then he cleansed my face with Daily Detox Facial Toner, and performed extractions with the Pore-fector Gadget.

Every time I get a facial in a place that offers extractions, the aesthetician zeroes in on my nose. After going along with it several times now, I have concluded that extractions just aren’t for me. First, it hurts like the dickens. Second, it leaves my skin red and blotchy afterwards — not just that day, but maybe even the day or two afterwards (facial skin is delicate!). Third, I can’t see a difference before and after. It’s not something I do at home, and I think I enjoy the professional experience more when I leave that step out.

Now, if you are a believer in extractions, the Bliss gadget is probably the Rolls Royce of tools. Like some other implements that might already be on your bathroom counter, its steriliz-able metal plate uses sonic vibrations to clean out pores. I’d probably recommend getting some guidance on how to use it before you jump right in.

We followed the extractions with another round of Clog Dissolving Cleansing Milk, then Decleor Aroma Night Balm (Decleor and Remede are also owned by Bliss). I also had my first ever Triple Oxygen Treatment, and it’s unlike any other product I’ve tried. The product… bubbles on your skin for an improbably long period of time.

Of course, it’s not a Bliss spa experience without their vitamin A, C, E serum and oxygen spray. And then Triple Oxygen Cream, Triple Oxygen Instant Energizing Eye Gel, and FabuLips balm had me ready for bed. I sort of love a late facial, because I feel a little bit naughty not washing my face/putting on moisturizer. (But it’s already on!)

One of the great things about Bliss is that almost all of their products are available for purchase (to keep those good feelings going). Since I’m not yet a Bliss-guru, I asked Kelly St. John and Katherine Coleman (one of her buyers) about their favorite products.

They recommend:

Body Butter: This comes in several scents, but both Kelly and Katherine voted for the classic Lemon + Sage. “It’s automatically relaxing,” Katherine said. I like Blood Orange + White Pepper; you could also choose Naked (no scent) or Vanilla + Bergamot.

Triple Oxygen Energizing Eye Masks: I love a good sheet mask for eyes, so when Katherine mentioned Bliss made one, it immediately went onto my “to try” list. When you haven’t really gotten enough sleep, an eye mask can be a great way to fake it.

Remede’s Alchemy Line: Kelly was also a fan of the Alchemy products from the Remede line. Alchemy is a “first signs of aging” line, rich in antioxidants (grapeseed, green tea, soy, vitamin E) for environmental defense, and “spiked” with great scents like peppermint.

I used to describe lip balms on a spectrum from waxy (or hard) to greasy (or squishy). Original Chapstick and Mint Chapstick are pretty waxy. Kiehls and potted Vaseline are pretty greasy. I would say I preferred the waxy end of the spectrum, because those tend to last longer. Greasy balms often disappear too fast, and I crave that soothing feeling. But research and development in cosmetics never stops, and there are more and more balms out there that are soft AND long-lasting.

My gold standard, my standby, the balm against which all other balms are measured, is Chapstick Moisturizing. It comes in a blue tube, includes SPF 15, smells like vanilla, and costs about a dollar.

But I have found a few others that I have to rave about. A fairly recent discovery for me is Jack Black lip balm ($7.50). I got a mini of their Natural Mint & Shea Butter in a recent Neiman Marcus gift-with-purchase, and it was love at first swipe. “Why didn’t you tell me about this sooner!” I demanded of my savvy sales associates. Their answer: We thought you already knew.

Jack Black is a mens skincare brand, and their balm comes in a squeeze tube with a slant tip. I don’t even particularly like mint flavoring, but Jack Black’s version is very much like an Andes after-dinner mint, and leaves me with the (possibly dangerous) sensation that I’ve just brushed my teeth.

The formula is incredibly soothing and moisturizing and long-lasting — so, emboldened and curious to try more flavors, I ordered the Grapefruit & Ginger and Black Tea & Blackberry two-pack from Sephora ($10). I don’t love them quite as much. The Grapefruit & Ginger has a sweet, grapefruit-peel scent (which doesn’t linger); Black Tea & Blackberry reminds me of blueberry muffin batter. More important than scent, however, these two seem to dry out a bit on the lips. The Grapefruit & Ginger, particularly, develops a slightly powdery quality. I noticed it most the first time I used it (perhaps I’ve been compensating by applying more thickly), but I’ll stick to Mint from now on.

Side note: I actually liked the Mint balm SO MUCH that I was inspired to search out other treasures from the line. I tried their hand lotion, and it didn’t win me over. I expected a “mens” hand lotion to really dry down completely, and Jack Black’s doesn’t. I guess it’s just the Mint balm for now.

Another great balm in a squeeze tube is VMV Hypoallergenics’ Armada Lip Balm (SPF 60). VMV Hypoallergenics is a +30-year-old company that works harder than anyone to be rigorously, demonstrably hypoallergenic. The North American Contact Dermatitis Group and European Surveillance System on Contact Allergies routinely publishes a list of known allergens — and VMV formulates their products without any of those ingredients. Everything is tested in vitro, in vivo, in double-blind studies — and never on animals. Their line ranges from shampoo and conditioner to color cosmetics to sunscreen to (unflavored) toothpaste.

Needless to say, their Armada lipbalm is unscented. It has a wonderfully comforting “heavy jelly” feeling. But it is $25, which is going to keep some folks away.

Another recent discovery for me (shameful!) is Korres Lip Butter. I actually swatched these ages ago, but hadn’t tried them on because the testers were icky.

Well I finally picked up Mango, and it feels wonderful. This is just about my ideal lip balm formula. Lip Butters come in several flavors, each with a unique color and scent. My next choice after Mango will be Pomegranate (you know me and warm lip colors). These are $12 each.

Oh how I hate pots, though! Using a lip brush with a balm feels too fussy. But using a finger means you need clean hands, and afterwards… you wipe your hands on your jeans? A friend of mine who went on a mission in Africa started applying balm from pot directly to lips, but it’s an imprecise method, and Mango is just tinted enough that I don’t want to color outside my lips.

Europe gets a stick version of these balms, and I’d like to try one at some point. I wonder whether the state change (from pot to stick) is going to significantly affect the formula and performance. Has anyone tried both and care to weigh in?

There are so many balms out there, I could go on and on. Did I miss one of your favorites? I’d love to hear what you can’t live without and why you love it.

Makeup remover is, to some extent, a matter of preference. What are you used to, what format do you prefer, how much makeup do you wear? When I’m swatching, my goal is to get my arm completely clean of often-stubborn products (like heavy-duty foundation, bright lipsticks, and long-wear eyeliners) as quickly as possible, with a minimum of scrubbing, no residue, and without drying my skin. Hands-down, the most effective category is oil cleansers. I prefer them to foams, lotions, cold creams, other liquids, and soaps.

You apply oil cleanser to dry skin, massage it around, add water (to emulsify), massage again, and rinse clean.

Cleansing oil doesn’t leave your skin feeling oily, and it won’t clog your pores or cause acne (the molecules are too large to penetrate). I’m probably going to horrify some aestheticians by saying this, but I don’t use a second product after washing my face with oil cleanser. Once the makeup/sunscreen is off, I’m done.

Anyway, having tried a number of oil cleansers, I wanted to share with you my personal rank list, from best to worst.

1. Shiseido Ultimate Cleansing Oil ($25, 5 oz)
This is, unequivocally, the best cleanser on the market. Designed to remove Shiseido’s notoriously protective sunscreens, it’s the most effective, gentlest, least obtrusive, no-residue, non-drying, best-thing-I’ve-tried. It’s my #1 choice at home and “in the field.” I never need a second product to get my arm “all the way clean.”

Oil cleansers turn cloudy/white when you get them wet (somehow this makes me feel that they’re working), and Shiseido’s does this best.  If you plunge an oiled hand into a bowl of water, it makes a satisfying “poof” of white as the oil dissipates into the water.

2. Bobbi Brown Cleansing Oil ($39, 6.7 oz)
If Shiseido’s Cleansing Oil is, for some reason, unavailable, my second choice is Bobbi Brown’s. It gets almost everything off (though if I’m swatching something particularly tenacious, I might have to follow it with a chaser of Chanel Gentle Biphase Eye Makeup Remover).

With repeated use, I feel like it builds up a bit of residue. But you’re probably not going to feel that in a single face-washing.

3. Shu Uemura Cleansing Beauty Oil Premium A/O Advanced Formula ($75, 15 oz)
Shu Uemura Cleansing Oils come in several “flavors” — Pore Clarifying (pink) for oily/acne-prone skin, White Recovery Brightening (purple), Classic (yellow), Premium for dry/sensitive skin (this used to be called “Rich” and it was orange… they’ve reformulated and now the bottle is yellow).

Anyway, my favorite is “Green,” which is supposed to address aging concerns, yet still feels light. I think it has the best scent, and it seemed to me to be the most effective of Shu’s oils. (Green is also their #1 seller.)

Shu has a sterling reputation for cleanse off oils (and many people feel they basically invented the category), but in a head-to-head (or should I say arm-to-arm?) test, Shu would sometimes leave behind “ghosts” that another cleanser (Shiseido, Laura Mercier’s old Light formula) would remove completely.

Honestly, Bobbi Brown’s Cleanse Off Oil and Shu Uemura’s Premium A/O are probably a tie for me, but since Shu no longer has a physical presence in the U.S., it’s a little harder to get. (You have to order from their website. Though, on the plus side, free shipping and no tax.)

4. Laura Mercier Purifying Cleansing Oil ($40, 6.8 oz)
Laura Mercier used to make two formulas of cleansing oil (Light and Rich) — and Light formerly held my #2-favorite spot.

“Rich” oils, oils intended for dry or mature skin, often don’t rinse clean. They seem like leave-in conditioner for the skin… they feel sort of oily even after you’ve washed them away.

Maybe a year ago, Laura Mercier reformulated their oil cleanser, and the new edition feels like a combination of the old Light and Rich. I’m not a fan.

5. MAC Cleanse Off Oil ($26, 5 oz)
MAC’s Cleanse Off Oil just isn’t my favorite. It simply doesn’t seem as effective as the others when it comes to removing makeup.

6. Lumene Lift Touch Revitalizing Cleansing Oil ($10, 6.8 oz)
Lumene is just about the cheapest cleanse off oil you can buy, and a while ago I bought some for home use (both face and arm). It was even on sale at CVS when I bought it, so I only paid $5 a bottle.

Now this sounds absolutely crazy, but I stopped using Lumene on my face because it was drying my skin. How can a cleanse off oil (which even mentions dry/mature skin on the bottle) be drying? Well, the bottle also mentions “toning,” so maybe that ingredient is the culprit. Has anyone else had this experience? I did buy this about a year ago, so it’s possible the product has been reformulated since then.

What’s your favorite makeup remover, readers? Are you on the oil bandwagon? Do you have a favorite that I haven’t tried yet?

When I heard about Kate Somerville’s new lash-growing eye makeup remover, I was deeply skeptical. I’ve tried various non-prescription lash-growing products and found them ineffectual. What’s more, I was sure that any eye makeup remover that was ALSO supposed to do something else couldn’t be a particularly effective makeup remover.

My wonderful sales associate Sonya offered to make me a sample, and I happily accepted, expecting to prove myself right.

Well, right off the bat, this is a damn good eye makeup remover. It’s a “cold cream type” remover: you apply it to dry lids/lashes, massage, and then tissue off. It takes off everything in one application — mascara, liner (even tightlined). It’s really quite fantastic.

Once I’d discovered how great True Lash was at taking off makeup, I really wanted to use it like a normal eye makeup remover (you know, on both eyes). But for science, I committed to only using it on my right eye. How else could I really verify its lash-growing claims?

I meant to use True Lash diligently. Every night! I told myself. But I failed in my dedication to the scientific method. I’d forget to use it, or not wear makeup. I was thinking I’d have to ask for another sample and begin my experiment over. But then I went to the Tom Ford launch, and ended up taking some close-up eyelash photos. Wait a minute — were the lashes on the right longer?  I ran to my mirror. Yes! They were!

I was such a bad scientist, I didn’t even record the start-date of my experiment. But after what was probably a month of completely sporadic application, True Lash had INDEED lengthened my lashes. It doesn’t grow new hairs (so you won’t end up with hairy eyelids). I could not be more excited about this product (or more committed to using it regularly now).

True Lash Lash Enhancing Eye Makeup Remover is $35 for a 1.7 oz tube (with a pump top, to avoid waste). It’s part of this totally awesome BeautyBloggers.org charity auction item (and you already know ExfoliKate is fantastic, right?). OR if you shop today at KateSomerville.com, you can take 30% off your order with code HOLIDAY2011.

And if you need to see the results for yourself before you take the plunge, call or visit the amazing Sonya at Neiman Marcus Northpark (214-363-8311). She’ll tell you everything you want to know about any product in the line (including what’s right for your skin concerns), and I know she’ll hook you up with samples.

You could stop here. You could say “pump top! That is so frickin’ smart!” But for the engineers, I’d like to explain how this simple-yet-brilliant machine works.

In the middle of the pump top is a short tube, or straw. The top of the straw is like a little periscope, which is where the cream comes out.

Here is the bottom side of the pump. You can see that the “straw” extends down into the cream. When you press down on the pump, you decrease the volume of the jar (creating higher pressure inside). That pushes the cream up the straw and out through the top.

Now actually, there’s a jar within the jar. That white jar (the inner jar) is the reservoir that holds the product. And at the bottom of that jar (below the product, where we can’t see it), there’s a sliding base. Each time you pump, a little bit of cream is pulled out of the jar, meaning the amount of cream in the jar is a little bit less, and the base slides a little higher — until the jar is empty.

The sliding base isn’t pushing the cream up, it’s just acting as a movable floor.

This is an empty jar, so you can see the base has reached the top (the pump).

And the amount of product left between the sliding base and the pump is literally one application (much less waste than many other designs).

Pretty awesome, right?

For individual help deciding which Kate Somerville products are best for you, I definitely recommend calling or visiting my wonderful associate Sonya (at Neiman Marcus Northpark, 214-363-8311). Even if you’re not in Dallas, she’ll set you up with samples to try-before-you-buy.

Why do we get wrinkles? There are two basic reasons. First, as we age, we lose volume (fat) in our faces. The underlying structure of the face shrinks, but the skin doesn’t shrink with it. If you lose a lot of weight, you may also have too much skin. Wrinkles that result from having too much skin can only be corrected surgically.

Second, as we age, our dermis thins (produces less collagen) and our skin loses its elasticity. Young skin, which has a thick dermis, is extremely elastic.  You can see this in action by gently pinching the skin on the back of your hands. The younger you are, the more readily that skin will snap back into place. The older the skin, the more slowly it spreads back into place (there’s a lag). Loss of elasticity (which you might think of as skin not behaving the way it’s supposed to) is the second cause of wrinkles.

All anti-aging skincare is intended to thicken the dermis (promote collagen production), and thin the stratum corneum (the dead, inflexible top layer of cells).

With skincare, as with any medicine, the important question is “what’s the active ingredient?” Genics’ active ingredient is glycolic acid, an alpha hydroxy acid (or AHA). AHAs do two things: (1) in the epidermis, they reduce cell cohesion. Dead cells fall off more easily, and skin cells are stimulated to reproduce. (2) In the dermis, AHAs promote the production of collagen, which increases skin’s elasticity.

Glycolic acid is the smallest AHA. The smaller the molecule, the more effectively it’s able to penetrate your skin. Random tidbit: Lactic acid is also an effective AHA, but it’s a larger molecule. These are the same ingredients that you’d find in a dermatologist’s chemical peel, but doctors are working with higher concentrations.

Are AHAs are the same as retinols? They produce similar effects, but they don’t work exactly the same way. AHAs work between cells, while retinols work within cells (they actually modulate cell behavior).

You might have also heard the term beta hydroxy acid (BHA). Beta hydroxy acid almost always refers to salicylic acid, which is most commonly used as an acne treatment. The mechanism is similar to an AHA. Salicylic acid is a keratolytic (it breaks up the hard little buildup of keratin around the inflamed pore) and a bacteriocide.

Anyway, back to the subject at hand. Avon gave me the opportunity to try Anew Genics, and so far, I like it. The product doesn’t feel too heavy, and it’s a nice moisturizer (my usually dry cheeks feel pleasantly soft when I wake up in the morning). It does have a somewhat “older” floral scent. I think Avon considers 45-59 their target age range for this product, but I haven’t felt that it was an inappropriate choice for me (30 years old). Avon Genics is $38 for a 1.0 oz jar.

Sublimage cleanser comes out of the tube as a gel, which “melts” into an oil as you rub it on your skin. You massage it onto dry face (and lashes), then dampen the cotton cloth with warm water. Place it over your face and let it sit for a moment (the warmth is supposed to maximize the soothing effects of the camellia and jojoba oils).

With the cloth still over your face, rub with gentle circular motions to remove your makeup. Then remove the cloth, rinse it out, and rinse your face with water.

In a nutshell, this is an oil cleanser. Whether or not you want to follow the full Chanel ritual, you apply it to dry skin, and then wet it to activate and thoroughly remove. It is NOT a cold cream (apply to skin, wipe off with cloth without the use of water). I’m probably not going to be taking the plunge anytime soon, but it’s nice to know how it works.

Sublimage cleanser (plus cotton cloth) is $95 for a 5.0 oz tube.

In my introduction to Kate, I mentioned that her recommended daily routine is:

1. Cleanse
2. Exfoliate (once a week for delicate/sensitive skin or skin that’s actively breaking out, up to three times a week if you’re oily/combo, or trying to even out discoloration)
3. Treat (whatever your skin’s issues are)
4. Hydrate (moisturize)
5. Protect (sunscreen)

I also mentioned that if you have a cleanser (or an exfoliator, or a sunscreen) that you just love, that’s totally okay.

I am something of a serial skincare experimenter, and until recently, I was hooked on samples of Chanel Sublimage (which I considered the best, most effective product out there. It actively reduced or erased my fine lines, but it’s also $400). Deep Tissue Moisturizer knocked Sublimage out of my #1 spot. Kate’s moisturizer feels fantastic, absorbs quickly, and your skin feels amazing afterwards. Literally, every morning when I wake up, I just want to touch my face. It’s given me the skin I didn’t appreciate when I was younger.

Big product lines (especially skincare) can be daunting, so I asked my sales associate Sonya to walk me through each moisturizer and who it was intended for. Of course, if you’re able, I really recommend calling Sonya for a personalized recommendation (and let her send you some samples to try!). Moisturizer IS just one piece of the Kate Somerville program, and I’d want you to try the products that are going to make the biggest difference for your concerns. Plus Sonya’s really nice.

Her number is 214-363-8311, and — for what it’s worth — Neiman Marcus’s beauty week/gifts with purchase are going on through Sunday. If you really prefer to order online, her website offers free shipping at $50.

Even oily skin needs hydration. (As I learned a few winters ago, dehydrated skin can break out even more, as it produces more oil to try to compensate.) Oil Free Moisturizer ($65) contains mattifiers for oil control, and it’s great for the oily and breakout-prone. This moisturizer also contains anti-aging benefits (oh, the injustice of adult acne) — which means if you’re younger than ~25, Goat Milk might be the better choice for you.

Goat Milk Cream ($55) is an ultra-soothing treatment-moisturizer, perfect for anyone with dermatitis, rosacea, super-sensitive, or irritated skin. Anyone can use it, and it feels fantastic. Of course we’d all rather prevent than treat, but it also feels good on a sunburn. I’ve tried this one, and I really liked the way it felt, but I’m drawn to an option that offers more treatment. If money were no object, I would own a jar for days when my skin is irritated or upset (or I’ve just gotten home from travel).

Nourish ($65) is the moisturizer for the ~25-year-old with normal skin. It contains vitamin A (an anti-aging ingredient that encourages cell turnover), feels great, it smells great, and it absorbs quickly. I love Deep Tissue, but I could see myself choosing Nourish (if Deep Tissue’s price point was too high, for example). Nourish could also be a day moisturizer to complement Deep Tissue (or CytoCell).

CytoCell ($150) is collagen-boosting, radiance-enhancing treatment for sagging or sun-damaged skin. It’s a hybrid moisturizer-serum that helps heal scars and shrink pores. It contains shea butter (so it’s not really for oily skin), and can be layered or alternated (day/night) with Deep Tissue if you need more moisture. One of Kate’s greatest accomplishments is really effective moisturizers that absorb quickly and completely. Your skin just feels good from the moment you put it on, but it’s not greasy or heavy in the slightest.

Deep Tissue ($150) was/is the blockbuster moisturizer in Kate’s line, though it’s not heavy at all. It can be used by every skintype (though oily should use it at night), it reduces redness, and it instantly plumps and hydrates the skin. I have been loving this stuff. When Winnie started my most recent makeover, the moment she touched my face she said, “your skin feels great, what have you been using?” My smile lines are gone, the lines under my eyes are almost gone, and the lines on my forehead are noticeably reduced — and I didn’t have to use it for very long to see/feel those results. It’s my miracle product.

Multi-Active Repair ($195) is Kate’s new kid on the block. It’s exclusive to Neiman Marcus now, but will eventually be sold everywhere. Like Deep Tissue, it’s a major moisturizer, but it has a thicker, more luxurious texture (to woo away that La Mer client). It also contains crushed pearls for radiance. Maybe it’s all in my head, but I feel like this one is “too much” for me and my needs right now.

I’m not working for Kate Somerville, I just discovered something I’m really excited about (and when I find something I love, I have to tell everyone). I just got back from a trip to New York for fashion week — for which I made the conscious decision not to pack foundation, just to max out on skincare. I was completely happy with how my skin looked: pores, fine lines, general appearance and texture (and got a bunch of compliments too).