Guerlain’s fall collection is more line-expansion than a seasonal collection — though the move is not too surprising, given that last year’s fall collection was comprised entirely of permanent additions to the line.
I’ve been waiting most eagerly to see the new eyeshadow quads, which looked like edited versions of last year’s brilliant six-pan eyeshadow palettes.
The new palettes are $59 each, and will replace Guerlain’s existing eyeshadow quads. (The six-pan palettes aren’t going anywhere.)
The first two quads are each a fantasy on a color theme. Les Violets (the purples) features a somewhat-dry-feeling (but pigmented) rich royal purple/plum. It’s matte, with a few very tiny sparkles. There’s also a satin lilac, a satin blue-purple (which is somewhat sheer and a little chalky), and an iridescent, shimmery steel-blue-purple.
Sheerness may not be a drawback, depending on your skintone and makeup aesthetic. On Marcus’s last visit, he used Les Verts on my eyes, but applied with such a delicate hand that I wondered, “how did he get THIS look out of THAT palette?” (His finished look wasn’t particularly green.) If that’s your makeup style, I don’t think you’d have any complaint of sheerness.
Les Bleus (the blues) includes a somewhat sheer, somewhat dry, blackened midnight-blue satin, a shimmery sky blue, a satin cerulean blue, and a shimmery silver-blue.
Les Verts (the greens) offers a dark, cool, matte, dry-but-pigmented brown, a shimmery apple green, a mossy, muted, army-drab, blued, dirty green. (It’s satin/matte with a few very tiny sparkles.) And the fourth shade — rowr! — is a heavenly, cool, wet sand/cool oatmeal grey taupe satin with a few very tiny sparkles.
Les Bois de Rose (rosewood) features a dark, warm, shimmery brown with very tiny, iridescent pink-blue-green sparkles. It also includes a frosty white-pink, a deep satin red/mauve tea rose (the color of rhodonite, actually), and a beautiful purple-brown taupe satin.
Les Gris (the greys) is delightfully surprising. Its colors include a matte, muted blue-green-grey, a low-shimmer champagne-sand-grey, a vibrant, shimmery evergreen teal with very tiny gold sparkles, and my favorite color: mossy, wintry, silvery grey-green. It’s shimmery/sparkly. Not what I expected at all from a “grey” palette.
Les Fumes (the smoke)… beautiful, but strangely not smoke-like. This palette features a soft, satin, bunny-brown ash-cool taupe. There’s a mauvey rose-dust satin, a dark cool brown taupe in a satin finish, and a frosty pink-purple champagne.
Les Cuirs (leather) is very approachable matte/satin palette of neutrals. Its shades include a warm, satin, chestnut brown with tiny sparkles. There’s a manila-folder yellow-cream matte, a satin dusty rose-purple-neutral, and a biscotti-neutral-peach.
Les Perles is the only quad to offer a theme on a finish, rather than a color. Each of these four shadows has a pearly, iridescent shimmer. The jewelry counter stands between my cosmetics department and the door leading outside, and I found myself discussing this quad with one of the sales people there. She said, “ah! Grey pearls, white pearls, Tahitian pearls, and pink pearls.” I love that way of thinking about this palette. The shades are shimmery, iridescent silver, pearly/shimmery iridescent white, shimmery iridescent muted grape, and shimmery white-pink.
Les Noirs (the blacks) is a fascinating proposition for anyone who’s really dedicated to the smoky eye. It includes a matte black, a frosty white-pink, a shimmery, iridescent black, and a dark, industrial, stormcloud grey satin with very tiny sparkles.
This collection introduces three new, limited edition Rouge G de Guerlain lipsticks ($47). I separated them so the colors wouldn’t distract from one another.
71 Girly (aptly named) is bright! hot! pink!
Garçonne means “boy” in French, but has a feminine suffix. The term was coined by French author J.K. Huysmans in 1880, to describe women who wore men’s clothing and hair styles. In the 1920s the word came to refer to flappers. 25 Garçonne is a juicy, ripe, pink-red. The fairer you are, the more red it will look; on darker skintones I would expect this to pull pink.
70 Gigolo (a male prostitute… does this word have any other meaning that I don’t know of?) is a red-violet-berry-magenta with a delicate shimmer.
Guerlain is also using this collection to expand its range of pencil liners, Crayon Yeux (which it describes as “eyeliner and kohl,” which I assume means they’re for lashline or waterline). The Crayon Yeux felt rather hard against my arm, especially compared with some of the super-creamy eyeliners I’ve been swatching lately. My sales associate said she thought that was because the formula didn’t contain much wax, and she assured me that they wear very well.
01 Khol Me Black was an existing shade (I say kohl, Guerlain says khol. Both spellings are correct). New are 20 Khol Me Navy, a softly shimmery lapis lazuli, 30 Khol Me Ebony, a very dark brown, and 40 Khol Me Jungle, a very muted, mossy, greyed army green. These pencils are $30 each.
And though there are only three new lipsticks for fall, the display features eight. The other five are repromoted permanent shades, previously swatched here.
Gabrielle is light warm pink with tiny, delicate pink shimmer. Gina is warm strawberry red with tiny, delicate gold shimmer. Garconne is pink red (cooler than Gina). Girly is bright Schiap pink. Grenade is blue rose-pink with tiny, delicate silver shimmer. Gracia is dusty mauve rose with tiny, delicate gold shimmer. Gigolo is electric berry. Gala is cool cherry red (deeper than Garconne).
Whew! Thoughts? See anything you love?