I recently had the great pleasure of having John Fussell, makeup artist extraordinaire for Chanel, do my makeup. The man is not only a wizard of beauty, but he’s been everywhere, knows everyone, and is endlessly entertaining. Just talking to him is delightful — sitting in his chair is a dream.
I wasn’t sure about sharing this makeover (even though I liked it), because I didn’t think it photographed well. But after seeing Keira Knightley’s look for the L.A. premier of Seeking a Friend for the End of the World, I thought the two looks had something in common. I’m not suggesting I look anything like Ms. Knightley (and Mr. Fussell didn’t use the same products as Ms. Lee), but they share a certain aesthetic — a freshness, a color palette, a light hand, and the restrained use of color. I wanted to share my facechart as another way to achieve this type of summer look.
Another artist (Dan) started me off: Lotion Douceur to clean my skin (Chanel skincare smells so good), Hydra Beauty Serum, Sublimage Fluid (because it’s a lighter formula), Hydra Beauty Lip, and Sublimage Eye.
He lightly applied the new Vitalumiere Aqua compact in 10 Beige (as needed), with the #9 foundation brush. He used the same foundation as spot concealer, and under the eyes.
Dan further corrected my undereyes with Correcteur Perfection Concealer 31 Beige Rose, and warmed the foundation up (for a better match) with Poudre Douce soft pressed powder in 20 Peche Tendre (“rolled” on with the #1 powder brush).
Now I know Dan didn’t want to go any further at this point (artists always have an opinion on color selection), but I had arrived early for my appointment, and John was still with another customer. To keep me entertained while I waited, Dan continued.
He contoured with the Soleil Tan de Chanel summer bronzer in 907 Sable Beige. He asked to see the palms of my hands before selecting a blush (to see the color of my skin with blood under the surface, to match my natural flush). —As Coco said, blush should be a secret.
Dan chose Espiegle, and — to my immense surprise — applied it with a fluffy eyeshadow blending brush (like a MAC 224). He said the small head forced you to blend as you apply, and his goal was subtlety, like I’d just taken a walk.
Then he highlighted my cheekbones, cupid’s bow, the bridge of my nose, and straight down the midline of my face with Soleil Tan de Chanel sheer illuminating fluid. This is more time and care than I usually spend on my face, but my skin looked both flawless and summery. At this point, John joined us.
John started with my lips, and Chanel’s Beige lip pencil. Chanel has a lip pencil called “Nude,” but it’s not nude at all (it’s kind of red-bronzey). Beige, John said, is the color of a freckle. With it, he could shape my lips without adding (or changing) a lot of color. It adds longevity to your lipcolor, but it’s not really identifiable.
John also added a touch of Pink Explosion blush.
For my eyes, John chose the summer eyeshadow duo, 37 Sable Emouvant. The light half, he said, is the perfect pearlescent, satin neutral — “my lids but better.” He applied that right on the lid, to just above the crease (and on the lower lashline). As a final step, he touched a little extra to the center of my lids with his fingertips (this deposits three-times what you’d get with a brush, he said).
He used the dark half at the outer corner of my lower waterline, and the outer corner of my top lashline. He used it to lightly contour my crease, and added a tiny smudge at the outer corner of my lower lashline. It was all very subtle, and going easy on eyeliner is one of the things I have the most difficulty with. I love eyeliner.
Next: Inimitable Intense mascara in 20 Brun (a sign of just how soft this look was — I never wear anything but black mascara), and Chanel’s Blond Clair brow pencil.
The coup d’grace: a little touch of Emerveille Illusion d’Ombres on the center of my lid, just above the lash line, and on my cheekbones.